Zagreb, Croatia -- The late 19th century roof sports colorful tiles of the coats-of-arms of an old Croatian-Dalmatian kingdom (left) and the city of Zagreb (right). The 14th century Gothic doorway is by Ivan Parler from Prague; it teems with 15th century baroque statues of the apostles in various states of disrepair -- even though the latest renovation was celebrated about 6 months before our arrival. Many consider this to be the most significant Gothic portal in Southeastern Europe even though it cries out for restoration. (Its Madonna is missing Mary's head and the entire upper half of Jesus's body! Perhaps the head cuts have gone too far.)

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