Day or night, by land or by sea, Dubrovnik's walls are highly visible as one approaches this historic city. One of the strongest set of fortifications in Europe, these were never breached. The town fell only once, when that rascal Napoleon and his buddies were invited in to help defend -- and decided to stay and take over the place. (Oh, those French!) But to a large degree, Dubrovnik's best defense were the skillful diplomats who played the city'-states's enemies off against each other such as the Venetians and the Turks. (Diplomacy sometimes consisted of paying tribute -- and bribes -- to each of those countries as well.) At the rear we see the Croatian coast -- only about 4 miles wide at this point. Over these mountain lies Bosnia and Herzegovina -- land of the Ottoman Turks until 1878
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